Dominica, The Leeward Islands. ‘’Mountainous and Impenetrable’’ March 2007
Although
Columbus sighted and named Dominica one Sunday in 1493, he didn’t stop, probably
put off by the volcanic activity and the steep, deep shoreline. This
didn’t stop us! Aboard Double Waters we anchored off the main town of Roseau and
then later in the bay off Portsmouth in the NW.
Highlights of our time in Dominica included trekking to the Boiling Lake, a trip up The Indian River (you’ll recognise this from Pirates of the Caribbean), and exploring the ex-British Fort Shirley fast being consumed by the jungle.
Our trek into the impenetrable jungle was along a trail that was pretty well
maintained with log steps and small bridges across the streams, none-the-less it
was arduous, with a climb of 600 steps in one
place (accurately counted by Jed who led the assault). Up around 1000m, in lush,
damp jungle, with towering gum trees and vines, we were occasionally refreshed
by a downpour. The walk in was about 3 hours and included crossing Desolation
Valley, so named as the sulphurous fumes have limited the growth of many plant
species,
and the hot steaming springs give the area an inhospitable, unearthly
atmosphere. Our destination was the Boiling Lake, a bubbling caldron with
vertical sides, about the size of a tennis court, with swirling steam rising
above the jungle. In addition to the spectacle of the volcanic activity the
views across the top of the island away to the coast were wonderful.
We went up the Indian River, a big river that runs inside a vast rain forest, we
went with a guide who rowed us up into the river, the whole trip took about 2h.
We stopped for 10mins at the place were the river was too shallow to follow in a
boat, some people were making a bar there (it was still being made) so we walked
up a track beside the river and saw loads of lizards, some snakes,
birds
etc etc …….
On the way back we went alongside the bank for a second and our guide put his
hand in the water and pulled out a big crab with big claws and red eyes. The
next day the river was shut, we think they were filming some final bits of
Pirates of the Caribbean. Its’ Indian River in Dead Mans
Chest with the bit when Jack Sparrow rows up the river to see the mystic
witchdoctor who gives him some dirt ( ‘I’ve got a jar of dirt, I’ve got a jar of
dirt’).
Fort Shirley was fascinating, particularly for the way the crumbling fort has been virtually overcome by the jungle trees and vegetation. Also a feature of Portsmouth is the rusting wrecks that line the shore the trademarks of several successive hurricanes.